La Route de la Trace - Between Rainforest and Clouds

The Route de la Trace (N3) is without doubt one of the most spectacular and picturesque roads in Martinique. This winding 30-kilometer route cuts through the heart of the rainforest, linking Fort-de-France to Morne Rouge, and passing through the Parc Naturel Régional de la Martinique. A magical itinerary where every bend reveals a breathtaking new natural tableau.
History of this legendary route
The Route de la Trace owes its name to the ancient trails ("traces") used by runaway slaves and Amerindian populations long before the arrival of European settlers. In the 17th century, Jesuits laid out the route to link the northern settlements with the southern plantations. The present road was actually built in the 19th century and has been continuously improved ever since.
Today, it is considered one of the most beautiful forest roads in the Caribbean, offering total immersion in a preserved tropical ecosystem. Local authorities have cleverly limited development to preserve its authentic wilderness character.
A lush green setting
From the very first kilometers, you enter a world apart, where exuberant vegetation creates a veritable green cathedral. Giant tree ferns, some over 10 metres high, line the road, creating natural tunnels that filter the sunlight. Red mahogany, white gum and chestnut trees form a dense canopy that plunges the road into a mystical gloom.
The ambient humidity, the mosses and lichens lining the trunks and the lianas intertwining the branches create an almost mystical atmosphere. On rainy days or in the early morning, the mist clings to the trees, giving the landscape a fantastic dimension worthy of a fairy tale.
Must-See Stops
Morne des Cadets Observatory
Situated at an altitude of around 350 metres, this observatory offers an exceptional panoramic view of Fort-de-France, its sparkling bay and the Pitons du Carbet. On a clear day, the view is breathtaking: the capital stretches out at your feet, surrounded by verdant mountains plunging into the turquoise sea. A perfect spot for photographers, especially at sunrise or sunset.
Cascade de l'Alma
A short 10-minute walk from a small parking lot takes you to this refreshing 8-meter-high waterfall. The crystal-clear water cascades down into a natural pool surrounded by lush vegetation. It's the perfect place for an invigorating swim! The water is cool (around 20°C) but so pleasant after a hike in the tropics.
The site is laid out with staircases and observation platforms, allowing visitors to admire the waterfall from different angles. The play of light through the canopy creates magical rainbows in the spray.
Les Deux Choux - Mystic hikes
The Deux Choux site offers several hiking trails through primary forest. The main trail, accessible to all, winds through centuries-old trees with impressive roots. You'll discover mountain palms, prehistoric ferns and an abundance of biodiversity.
A more strenuous hike (approx. 2h30) takes you to the top of the pitons, offering a breathtaking view of the forest stretching as far as the eye can see. The atmosphere is magical: the song of thrushes, the rustle of leaves in the breeze, and the deep silence typical of high-altitude rainforests.
Balata Garden
Located just off the Route de la Trace, this extraordinary botanical garden deserves a thorough visit (see our dedicated article). It's an opportunity to discover over 3,000 species of tropical plants and to walk on the famous suspension bridges overlooking the canopy.
Exceptional fauna and flora
The Route de la Trace passes through an area of remarkable biodiversity. Many of the forest's 1,500 plant species are endemic to the Lesser Antilles. Botany enthusiasts will be delighted by the diversity of wild orchids, bromeliads and heliconias that color the undergrowth.
As for the fauna, keep your eyes peeled for manicou (West Indian possum), anolis (small green lizards), and a host of endemic birds: yellow-bellied sugarbird, yellow-footed thrush, white-throated mockingbird. If you're lucky, you might even spot a trigonocephalus (venomous snake) basking on a branch - but be careful and respectful!
Practical tips for your getaway
- Best time: Early morning (7am-9am) to avoid the fog and enjoy the morning light. In the afternoon, the road is often shrouded in clouds.
- Duration: Allow at least 2-3 hours to fully enjoy the stops and hikes.
- Driving: The road is narrow and winding, so drive carefully (30-40 km/h maximum). Watch out for scooters and cyclists!
- Equipment: walking shoes, rain gear (weather changes quickly), camera, binoculars for birdwatching
- Provisioning: Bring water and snacks, there are very few shops along the route.
- Safety: Do not leave any valuables visible in your vehicle at stopovers.
Unusual Experiences
For the more adventurous, several aglocales offer guided night-time hikes along the Route de la Trace. Equipped with headlamps, you'll discover the forest in a whole new light: watch for bats, listen for frogs and nocturnal insects, and if you're very lucky, meet the matoutou falaise, an impressive endemic mygale.
Mountain bikers will also be delighted by the many technical trails winding through the forest. Several companies offer guided descents for all levels.
The Trace Route by Season
In the dry season (December to May), visibility is generally excellent and trails more passable. It's the ideal time for crystal-clear photography.
In the wet season (June to November), the forest is even more lush, the waterfalls more impressive, and the misty atmosphere lends the landscape a mysterious dimension. However, some trails can be slippery and visibility reduced by fog.
A journey to the heart of authentic Martinique, far from the tourist beaches! The Route de la Trace is an unmissable experience for anyone wishing to discover the true soul of the island, its lush nature and exceptional biodiversity. A moment of communion with nature that's an absolute must during your stay at Hôtel Bambou.
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